Aït Ben Haddou: the ksar of a thousand films, explored from Marrakech

When reality outshines the set

The first time I took a group to Aït Ben Haddou, one of the participants stopped dead at the top of the ksar, hands on her cheeks: "Wait… is this real? Is this actually real?" Yes, it is real. Those ochre pisé towers rising from the desert, those narrow lanes climbing toward the sky, that light shifting with every hour — none of it is a reconstructed film set. It is a thousand-year-old village listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is one of my favourite places to share with visitors from Marrakech.

Gladiator, Game of Thrones, Lawrence of Arabia, Babel, The Mummy… The list of productions filmed here is dizzying. But beyond the cinematic prestige, Aït Ben Haddou is first and foremost a living testament to Berber architecture from southern Morocco. I want my visitors to leave with that in mind, not just with a selfie "where Jon Snow walked".

The road: a spectacle before the spectacle

To reach Aït Ben Haddou from Marrakech, you cross the Tizi N'Tichka pass, at over 2,200 metres above sea level. That's around 204 km of road — roughly 2h30 to 3 hours of driving. I always tell my groups: don't sleep in the car. The winding bends reveal Atlas panoramas that deserve every minute of attention. We stop for photos along the way — the pass itself, the landscapes shifting from green to gold to red with every kilometre. It's an almost magical geological transition.

Departure is at 7am from your hotel or riad, with pick-up included in the package. I always insist on the early start: it's a chance to enjoy the most beautiful light on the pisé facades, and to avoid the temperatures that can exceed 45°C in summer in Ouarzazate. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses and a water bottle — they're essential.

Through the lanes of the ksar

Once there, I recommend taking the time to climb up to the collective granary that crowns the ksar. The ascent follows cobbled lanes — comfortable shoes are a must — but the view from the top over the valley and the ksar itself is worth every step. Entry to the site is very affordable (around 15 MAD), and you can add a local guide on site for an even deeper immersion into the history of the Berber families who built these walls.

What I particularly love about this Excursion Ouarzazate Aït Ben Haddou depuis Marrakech is that it leaves room for spontaneity. Wandering, stopping to watch a craftsman at work, chatting with a local — there's no timer rushing you along. Several restaurants on site let you enjoy a relaxed lunch before heading on toward Ouarzazate.

Ouarzazate, Morocco's film capital

Late in the morning or after lunch, we head to Ouarzazate — nicknamed "the Hollywood of the desert". A stop at the Kasbah de Taourirt (entry ~10 MAD) is a must: this former Glaoui residence is one of the best-preserved kasbahs in Morocco. And if cinema fascinates you, the film studios are accessible on site with an entry fee paid directly there (80 MAD). You'll find reconstructed sets from famous films — a moment that delights children and adults alike.

How I prepare for this day

To make sure everything runs smoothly, here is what I always advise:

• Book at least 5 days in advance — that's the rule, and it exists so the day is well organised for you.
• Bring water or a filled bottle from the morning: the heat rises quickly once you're past the pass.
• Have cash for the small entry fees and tips — ATMs are rare in this area.
• The excursion is family-friendly, but keep in mind that the lanes of the ksar are cobbled and sometimes steep.
• You are welcome to bring your own snacks and drinks for the journey.

This is one of the days I organise with the greatest pleasure. Setting off at sunrise from Marrakech, crossing the Atlas, setting foot in one of the most filmed locations in the world — and coming home in the evening with the feeling of having journeyed through several civilisations in a single day. That is Aït Ben Haddou.